Tools, Lubes

I lack the motivation for the requirements of dipping my chain, i.e., the thoroughgoing deep clean preceding it. But, I do like a clean drive train and max mileage from my chosen Dura Ace chains. So, 2 years ago I began using Squirt. I am STILL using it on the same chain, now having racked up over 5k miles, and with a relatively clean drive train! (it's a great blessing when replacing a tube roadside). Every time I pull out the Park chain checker I scarcely believe my eyes. Still way under a half millimeter stretch over 4 links!

I have a baggie on my tool shelf with 5 or 6 bottles of expensive wet lubes, probably $200 or more, gathering dust. Why would I ever switch?

I got this at a sale price at WBW, so it is a better value as such. It seems like the electronic element of this unit is pretty lightly built, but I've had no issues and it heats pretty quickly. The thermostat-setting readout is nice, and allows a big range of heating choices. The weakest link to this system is the "chain holder", which is just a short cable/handle which has a tiny threaded section that wouldn't take much to strip or cross thread, and is rather fiddly when threading the chain onto the cable for immersing it. But I still like this unit well, and appreciate the thought that went into it.

I have had this tool for several years and have found it to be the answer to get that last 6-8 inches of tire bead over the wheel. I mount Continental 5000 clinchers on DT Swiss R 470 DB wheels. When I get the tire to the last 6-8 inches that will not go over the wheel, I use a Crank Brothers tire tool to hold one end of the unseated tire bead in place and then take about 2-2.5 inches of the bead and use the tool to pull that smaller amount of tire over the rim. If you don�t hold the other end of the tire bead then you may end up chasing that 6-8 inches around the rim. I repeat 3-4 times to get the entire bead over the wheel. I think where some of the issue with this tool comes from is a tendency to try and pull the entire bead over the wheel at once because the tire bead starts moving as mentioned above. I also believe trying to pull the full bead over the wheel may be the source of why the tool breaks. Think about this. If the tool were made of steel and couldn�t break what might happen to an expensive carbon fiber wheel. It would break. You might bend an alloy wheel. The people that make this tool were correct to make it the sacrificial piece at under $20 rather than damage or breaking a wheel.

My drivetrain is quieter and smoother than ever; this is superior to any other lubrication product on the market. Before this product, I was cleaning my cassette and chain after every ride. Now I just wipe my chain down after each ride instead - much easier! Cassette barely gets dirty and I clean it every 3rd or 4th ride as needed. Top off after about 100-200 miles with the Super Secret drip; the whole system is an absolute game changer. Yes it takes some effort and getting used to, but it's well worth it. Check out zerofrictioncycling . com for the real data, and how use of this will extend the life of your drivetrain.